As a provocation and body parts helped the Frenchman to become a legend photos

In the Center of photography behalf of the Lumiere brothers opened the exhibition of one of the most influential photographers of the twentieth century, guy Bourdin. The disciple of such classics as man ray, the Frenchman started his career in the 1950s and over the next three decades, made a real revolution in shooting fashion, advertising and commercial photography.

His photographs are held in the collections of institutions, the level of the Victoria and albert Museum in London and the MoMA in new York, and the exhibition in Moscow presented more than 50 of his most famous works. Exhibition: "Guy Bourdin. Follow me" is in the Moscow Center of photography behalf of the Lumiere brothers until 17 may.

Born in 1928, guy Bourdin learned photography when, in the late 1940s, served in the French air force. In the beginning of the next decade he, fascinated by the surrealism, according to legend, was repeatedly pestered Studio classics of this trend in photography man ray — and have repeatedly heard of, until at some point he still didn't let persistent young man in his Studio, and then took patronage over him.

The influence of man ray, a veteran of several revolutionary for twentieth-century art movements from Dada to surrealism — burden carried with him through his entire career in photography. And it was manifested not only in the manner of to build a space frame or a narrative for a series of pictures, but in the approach to their work: classic Burdeno gave a personal example of absolute creative freedom, which the photographer refused to compromise even on numerous commercial projects.

His first shot for Vogue Bourdain had back in the 1950s — shocking the audience with pictures of models in the entourage of the Parisian meat market. To the editor immediately showered letters perturbed inhabitants — which did not prevent cooperation of the journal and burden to last for more than three decades.

Model Nicole Meyer told about this picture, which is one of the most famous in the portfolio burden:

The style of the burden exaggerated bright, dramatic, almost theatrical staged pictures of models, and often the only parts of their body as if separated from their owners, — survived and advertising campaigns magazines and for which they were made.

Bourdain in his work inherited not only the works of other photographers, literature, cinema, classical and contemporary art. Among the most obvious sources of his inspiration, the films of Luis Bunuel and Alfred Hitchcock, the paintings of Rene Magritte or as in this photo, Edward hopper.

Bourdain was one of the first is working with fashion photographers rejected the idea of a pure representation of the product — preferring her narrative, involving the history, plot and atmosphere shots.

For some of the most famous of their staff — which female legs are separate from the body that modern audiences might consider the effect achieved in postprodukce, — Bourdain saw off the legs of mannequins, then placing them in an already thought-out space.

Photos burden almost always tell a story — though, sometimes fragmentary and even tragic in its fragmentation. Like many photographers of his time, he loved Hitchcock movies — and especially his concept of the "macguffin" is still, often remaining unexplained object around which the plot revolves.

Despite the fact that footwear is often the last thing to notice many images of the burden of advertising and brand Charles Jourdan, with whom he collaborated from the 1960s and which gave him full creative freedom, in the company believe that his work has brought Charles Jourdan popularity and sales. The influence of the photos Bourdin for Charles Jourdan easy to see and is Christian Louboutin.

Burden, as his colleagues the same time, such as Helmut Newton, often accused of misogyny — he, however, sought not to exploit real feminine beauty, and the fact that their frame to explore the dark underbelly of a reality show, as a spread in a fashion magazine may sometimes serve as a reflection of a dream and sometimes a nightmare.

For the filming of the promotional campaign for Charles Jourdan Bourdain asked to produce a giant replica of one of the shoes (which, according to legend, left whole tree) — the resulting picture is a reference to the lyrics of your favorite photographer of Lewis Carroll, who was also obsessed with the mirror reflections with hidden meanings and idea of the danger of imagination.

"Guy asked me that I stood like a doll in public. Dressed in a pink satin combination, I stood absolutely still while the fan blew on silk paper and lifted my hem... Each frame has always been given much attention. It didn't mean that spontaneity does not exist.

Ki set the tone, invented the scenery and provoked a reaction in the frame that was very similar to the work of the Director. His photos look like stills from the movie. In them there is always an element of tension, anticipation — as well as an unfinished story keeps you waiting for the denouement," said Nicole Meyer about the history of this frame.

Truly iconic figure in the world not only as an advertising photographer and modern art Bourdain did a retrospective exhibition at the Victoria and albert Museum in 2003 in life.

He persistently refused to present your pictures in the gallery space, preferring fleeting and perishable medium of advertising spread in the magazine. He even sent their pictures to the editors with clear instructions about what lane they should be located.